Angel Wings Pinafore turned to Dress
The original pattern for this dress is, as its name says, actually a pinafore, which means it is made to be open at the back. The pattern is a free one by Maxine Gonser.
I made some small adjustments to make an actual dress. Below I’ll provide a copy of the actual pattern in black text. My adjustments are added in blue text.
Have fun!
Angel Wings Pinafore © Maxine Gonser
Original: here
Yarn:
On Ravelry they suggest Bernat Baby Sport Solid, an acrylic yarn with a recommended hook of 4mm. The stated amount of yarn needed it approx. 3oz or 85g.
I used Bergère de France Sport, an acrylic-wool blend with a recommended hook of 3.5 and 4mm. I used a total of 3 skeins, but I made the pattern slightly larger than the original pattern.
Size: newborn – 3 months
My dress fits my niece of 8 months very widely. So she’ll be able to wear it a couple of months more!
Gauge: 7 sts =2 inches 2 rows of dc = 1 inch
I didn’t make a gaugeswatch.
Hook size: 5.0 mm (H)
Because I intended the dress for my niece, older than 3 months, I opted to use a bigger hook. I used an 8mm to cast on and a 7mm for the rest.
Abbreviations:
All terms are US-terms
ch = chain
sls = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
shell = (dc 2, ch1, dc 2) in appointed space
st = stitch
sts = stitches
Body
Start: ch 52
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook an in each ch across. [51]
Row 2: ch 3. turn. dc in each of next 2 sts. * 2dc in next st. dc in each of next 3 sts. repeat from * 11 times. dc in each remaining sts to the end. [63]
Row 3: ch 3. turn. dc in each of the next 3 sts. * 2dc in the next st. dc in each of the next 4 sts repeat from * 11 times. dc in each remaining st. dc on top of ch 3. [75]
Row 4: ch 3.turn. dc in each of the next 3 sts. * 2 dc in the next st.dc in each of the next 4 sts. repeat from * 13 times. dc in each of the remaining sts, dc on top of ch 3. [89]
Row 4b: ch3, turn. dc in each st until end, without increasing. [89]
Skirt
After my extra row (4b) I started crocheting in the round, instead of in rows.
The original instructions are copied below in regular text. My adjustments are in blue text.
Row 5: ch 3. turn. dc in the same st. * skip next st. shell (2dc ch 2 2dc) in next st. repeat from * to end 2dc on top of ch 3. [43 shells]
Row 5 = Round 1: sls in top of beginning ch3 of row 4b, to connect both pieces. Make sure the work isn’t turned on itself. ch3, dc in same st as sls. * skip next st; shell in next st. Repeat from * until end. Skip next stitch, 2dc in last st. sls in top of beginning chain.
Row 6: ch 3 . turn. dc in the same st. shell in next 6 shells. ch 3. skip next 10 shells. shell in next 11 shells. ch 3. skip next 10 shells. shell in next 6 shells 2dc on top of ch 3.
Row 6 = Round 2: ch3, dc in same st as sls. Shell in next 6 shells; ch3. Skip next 10 shells. Shell in next 11 shells; ch3. Skip next 10 shells. Shell in next 6 shells. Skip dc. 2dc in last dc. Sls in top of beginning chain.
Row 7: ch 3. turn. dc in same st. shell in next 6 shells. dc in each of next 3 ch. shell in next 11 shells. dc in each of 3 ch, shell in next 6 shells. 2dc on top of ch 3
Row 7 = Round 3: ch 3, dc in same st as sls. Shell in next 6 shells. dc in each of next 3 ch. Shell in next 11 shells. dc in each of 3 ch. shell in next 6 shells. 2dc in last dc. sls in top of beginning chain.
Row 8: ch 3. turn. dc in same st. shell in next 6 shells. skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc. shell in next 11 shells. skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc.shell in next 6 shells. 2dc on top of ch 3. [25 shells]
Row 8 = Round 4: ch 3, dc in same st as sls. Shell in next 6 shells. skip first dc of underarm and shell in next dc. Shell in next 11 shells. skip dc of underarm and shell in next dc. Shell in next 6 shells. 2dc in last dc. sls in top of beginning chain.
Row 9: ch 3. turn. dc in same st. shell in each shell to end. 2dc on top of ch 3.
Row 9 = Round 5: ch3, dc in same st as sls. Shell in each shell to end. 2dc in last dc. sls in top of beginning chain.
Row 10-17: repeat row 9. (so originally 8 repeats)
Row 10-17 = Round 6-13 Repeat row 9. (8 repeats)
Because I wanted a longer skirt, I repeated row 9 an additional 3 times:
Round 14-16: Repeat row 9. (3 extra repeats)
Row 18: ch 3. turn. dc in same st. sc in space before shell.* 5dc in shell. sc in space between shells. repeat from * to the end. sc in space after last shell. 2dc on top of ch 3
Row 18 = Round 21: ch3, dc in same st as sls. sc in space before shell. * 5dc in shell. sc in space between shells. repeat from * to the end. sc in space after last shell. 2dc in last dc. sls in top of beginning chain.
sew 3 buttons on the rt side of the yoke. use space at end of rows for buttonholes. you can also sc up the back side . working 3 ch2 loops for buttonholes on the left side. sc across the neckline and sc down the other side.
If you crocheted a closed skirt (blue instructions), than you now only have a small opening at the top of the neck.
Around this opening I crocheted sc and created a loop of 2 chains on the left side. On the right side I sewed on a tiny button.
And that’s it. With these instructions you should be able to make exactly the same dress as me!
Cheers,
Charlotte
One Comment
Anita Elmore
Wonderfully done! I’ve created this before using the original pattern, but I think that I will have to do it again using your adjustments! Thank you so much for sharing!
♥Anita